Nestled in the front ranges of the Rocky Mountains
on the Alberta-British Columbia boundary, about 104 km north of
Sparwood, is 5,625
hectare Elk Lakes Provincial Park and adjacent 11,700 hectare Recreation Area, a delicate
sub-alpine area of outstanding mountain landscapes, natural lakes and remnant glaciers.
Rugged, rock-faced peaks encompass the park. The mountains
and glaciers of the north and west boundaries are a roll call of French leaders of the
First World War: Mount Petain, with Petain Glacier, the largest glacier in the park,
clinging to its flanks, Mount Nivelle, Mount Joffre and Mount Foch.
Petain, Elk and Castelneau Glaciers feed their melt waters via Nivelle
and Petain Creeks to Upper Elk Lake, which lies mountain-bordered at an elevation of 1,800
m. Lower Elk Lake, about half the size of Upper Elk Lake, is 100 metres lower in
elevation and about 800 m to the southeast of the upper lake's outlet. Both lakes
are glacial gems. Their waters are too cold for swimming, but angling in them for
Rocky Mountain whitefish, Dolly Varden and cutthroat trout can occasionally be productive.
Much of the park is above treeline. At lower elevations alpine
fir, Englemann spruce and lodgepole pine predominate; interspersed with juniper,
twinberry, false azalea, white rhododendron and dwarf huckleberry. Yellow violets,
foam flowers and bunchberries add a touch of colour. In the alpine meadows are scrub
birch, cinquefoil, Saskatoon and gooseberry with alpine flowers like fireweed, Indian
paintbrush, blue violet, elephant's head and giant ragwort splashing the area with
colourful displays.
Wildlife is present in the park. Near the entrance are scores of
chipmunks and ground squirrels. Beavers are resident near Upper Elk Lake and at
Elkan Creek. Elk and moose frequent the meadows near the upper and lower lakes.
Occasionally a mountain goat, Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, grizzly bear or black
bear may be seen by the observant visitor.
Bird life is fairly common. Spruce grouse are often encountered
along the trails and ubiquitous members of the
jay family seem ever-present to cadge and cajole visitors. A variety of waterfowl is
transient in the lakes' area.
Temperatures in summer may reach close to the 30 degree C mark on
occasion, with the average closer to 20 degrees C. Overnight the thermometer often
registers below freezing. The park is usually free of snow at lower elevations by
mid-June, although the trails will remain wet and muddy until the first part of July.
The lakes are ice-free by mid-June and remain so until late in November.
How to get to the park: At Sparwood, on Highway 3, turn
north on Hwy 43 for 35 km to the community of Elkford. From Elkford travel the
gravel road on the west side of the Elk River. Approximately 47 km north of Elkford,
the road crosses the Elk River and joins the Kananaskis Power Line Road. It is 43 km
from the crossing to the park. There are several Ministry of Forests campsites
located along this section of the road. This road has been upgraded to allow two
wheel vehicle access to the park boundary. Driving time from Sparwood to the park is
approximately 2 hours. Access to the park is also possible from Alberta's Peter
Lougheed Provincial Park.
Trails: Elk Lakes Park and Peter Lougheed Park share a
common boundary along the Continental Divide. As the old powerline road to Peter
Lougheed is closed to all public traffic, we have provided trails to link the parks
together.
Park Entrance to Peter Lougheed Park via West Elk Pass:
Length 4 km, suggested time 1-1 1/2 hours, elevation gain 240 m. The trail
climbs moderately through a mature spruce forest before opening onto a large open scrub
spruce meadow. The trail parallels this meadow for about 2 km before coming to the
provincial boundary at Elk Pass. The parking area in Peter Lougheed Park is
approximately 3 km from the boundary. Hikers have the option of making a circuit
trip back to the park entrance via Upper Elk Lake and Fox Lake Trail.
Peter Lougheed Park to Upper Elk Lake: Length approximately
7 km, suggested time 2 hours, elevation gain 300 m. From the Elk Pass parking lot in
Peter Lougheed Park the trail follows the powerline road for a short distance. At
Fox Creek the trail leaves the road to the right and follows an old track to the
provincial boundary at Elk Pass. At this trail junction, follow the trail to the
right leading southward. The trail to Upper Elk Lakes skirts near the shore of Fox
Lake and descends the south slope of Mt Fox to the Upper Lake. Excellent views of
Elk Lakes, Elk Valley and surrounding peaks. For a more direct route to Lower Elk
Lake and Park Headquarters, go straight ahead at the junction at Elk Pass.
Lower Elk Lake to Upper Elk Lake: Length 1.6 km, suggested
time 1/2 hr, elevation change 76 m. The trail to the Upper Lake passes through
meadows, mature spruce forests and rock slides. Exciting views of the Elk River and
interesting geological formations near Upper Elk Lake.
Viewpoint: Length 1.5 km, suggested time 2 hrs, elevation
change 91 m. Trail starts on the west side of the Upper Elk River above its entrance
to Lower Elk Lake. It skirts the lakeshore and then climbs steeply to a prominent
viewpoint. Trail is short but strenuous.
Along Upper Elk Lake: Length 2.4 km, suggested time 1/2 to
1 hr, no elevation change. A pleasant walk along the lakeshore. Excellent
views of peaks, basins and rock formations on opposite side of lake. Numerous
waterfalls spout from limestone walls above lake during run-off. Good fishing spots
along the shore.
Upper Elk Lake to Petain Creek Waterfall: Length 4 km,
suggested time 1 to 1 1/2 hr, elevation change 91 m. Easy hike. Beautiful view
of the waterfall and the Castelneau hanging glacier. Large gravel outwash plains
permit extensive wandering through the area.
Routes:
There are several common routes in the park. They all share the
same criteria. Generally, trails do not exist. Moderate scrambling and travel
through fairly dense undergrowth and occasionally through tangled slides is required.
These routes offer excellent scenic opportunities. Sections are not
maintained and are not recommended for small children. Hikers travel these routes at
their own risk.
Upper Lake Campsite to Coral Pass: A demanding hike but
worthwhile. The Nivelle drainage offers superb views and some fine examples of
fossilization. From the campsite (near the crossing) follow old trails trough the
timber in a general direction paralleling Petain Creek. Long stretches of outwash
plain are then followed, making travel easy. At the base of Nivelle Creek is a
snowfilled canyon - avoid the snow unless roped (Nivelle Creek erodes the underside,
making it possible to fall through). Either the left or right hand side of the creek
is accessible - some scrambling required on the right side. Pick you own route up.
Coral Pass is located at the west end of the valley. Access to Cadorna Lake
is possible.
Upper Lake Campsite to Cadorna Lake: A demanding hike that
provides either a pleasant day trip to the pass, access to Mt Aosta for climbers or a link
to Cadorna Lake. From the campsite (near the crossing) strike out in a southerly
direction through the forest, following old trails. A large slide path is reached.
For the next hour or so you must pick your way up the slide heading for the pass.
As elevation is gained, vegetation thins and finally scree leads to the pass.
Superb views of Cadorna Lake and Italian group of peaks. Easy descent to
Cadorna Lake. Caution must be used as several cliff bands interrupt your descent to
the lake. Routes around them can easily be found. Generally it is best to head
straight down as opposed to angling in the direction of the lake.
Lower Elk Lake to Fox-Frozen Lake Viewpoint: A moderate
hike offering fine views of Elk Lakes, Elk Valley and Kananaskis Lakes. Very
worthwhile. Follow trail to Upper Elk Lake at the outlet, cross the bridge and
follow trail to West Elk Pass (Kananaskis Peak). Approximately 1.5 km from the lake,
the trail switchbacks up a slide path. From here you are on your own. Stay on
the path to the top. Travel is easy though steep.
Petain Creek Waterfalls to Petain Basin: Length 4 km,
suggested time 2 hrs, elevation change 520 m. A strenuous hike giving access for
mountaineering or pleasant wandering in the Petain Basin. A faint trail provides
access. From where the waterfalls first become visible, continue up trail until it
comes to a small rock band (3 m high). Work around band on the left (west) side
where the trail is visible. Approximately 100 m up, cross the usually dry creek bed (even though the trail appears to keep climbing) and pick
up trail on east side. Follow trail to basin.
Facilities:
Camping: There are three areas where camping is permitted:
Park Entrance - camping on a large, grassy terrace set among lodgepole pine. Toilet
and fire pit, Park Headquarters nearby. Lower Elk Lake - toilet, fire pits, space
for 10 tents on east side of trail. Petain Creek - area extends from west end of
Upper Elk Lake to end of gravel terrace on south side of creek. Campsites are
designated by fire pits. Please do not make any new fire pits. Trees, dead or
alive are not to be cut for any purpose.
Angling: Angling in the Elk River and Lower Elk Lake and to
a lesser extent in Upper Elk Lake and Upper Elk River, for Dolly Varden, Rocky Mountain
whitefish and cutthroat trout. Cutthroat average about 24 cm and whitefish about 22
cm. Very few Dollies are caught. Best period is right after breakup and from
September to freeze-up. Fishing is poor during run-off (July - August).
Winter Use: There is limited winter use due to unploughed
roads. It is possible to reach the park from Alberta via Peter Lougheed Park ski
trails. Travel is fairly easy through the lower areas. Do not follow the
summer hiking trail to Upper Elk Lake via Fox Lake since there are numerous avalanche
paths along the way. Instead, follow meadows in a southerly direction until the powerline is reached.
For more information, please link:
wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/elklakes.htm
